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A medieval spire rises above the trees, the woodlands part and a fairytale dreamscape tumbles into view. Twelve hundred roses flowering all at once and just beyond, Kasteel De Haar, all glistening turrets, stately towers and rambling ramparts against cornflower blue June skies. I follow in the footsteps of blue blooded bohemians and barefoot barons. Over bridges and through hedge mazes into storied halls brimming with rich wood carvings and Flemish tapestries.